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Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Macau's gambling industry

cannot quite remember whether it was the Vino Tinto - perhaps you know the sort, slightly gruff and moody but heart-warming nonetheless.

Or maybe it was the outrageously sensuous and fickly-named Serradura, a pudding so seductive it would have broken laws in any other incarnation.

Either way I finished my meal at La Lorcha with the conclusion that if you are looking for an authentic culinary experience that hits every spot in the stomach and still has pretensions to being healthy, it has to be Portuguese.

After supper, I walked through the Avenidas and Estradas past the Dom Pedro V Theatre and the various monasteries while catching, I thought, a slight hint of southern Europe's perfumed air.

And then I saw the egg - an electronic egg. No, an electronic Faberge egg.
Again - an electronic Faberge egg that was 100 feet tall and still greater in girth.
"Welcome," it greeted me in tens of millions of flashing pixels, "to the Hotel Lisbo
A huge flashing advertisement in English and Chinese - not Portuguese - announced that the American gaming firm MGM Mirage is looking to recruit croupiers, dealers, doormen and entertainers for its new casinos.

Because in 2001, the communist Chinese decided not to close down the gaming industry - as might have happened in times past - but to expand it through liberalisation.
Mr Ho lost his monopoly and it was not long before the fat cigars like MGM arrived on the tiny island from Las Vegas.

Stanley Ho had to move with the times and plans for the Faberge egg were laid.
Macao's gambling revenue in 2006 weighed in at a massive £3.6bn - about £100m more than Las Vegas.

Along with the liberalisation, the boom is being fuelled by the charge of mainland Chinese who can now zip over the border and fritter away their hard won yuan in a night or two of wanton excess.

Unrestrained capitalism

Inside the egg, apart from the Russian "dancers" as they are described on their visas, I was one of about five non-Asians among thousands of people.
This frenzy is not fuelled by Western tour operators but by the region itself

Inside the egg, apart from the Russian "dancers" as they are described on their visas, I was one of about five non-Asians among thousands of people.
This frenzy is not fuelled by Western tour operators but by the region itself.
And when the Chinese gamble, it is not just the occasional flutter - it is industrial.


Macau and communist China's fanatical commitment to unrestrained capitalism have changed this fundamentally.

It is hard not to sound pompous but I can only lament the steady disappearance of Macau's unique cultural fusion of the Mediterranean and southern Chinese which exudes a quiet elegance.

Super casinos may be glitzy, they may make stacks of cash for the owners and tax collectors but after an evening wandering around assaulted by lights, bells, buzzers, and various inducements, I am left with a deep sense that this culture of mega-gambling is tasteless, soulless, cheerless and mindless.